J.C. Leyendecker (1874–1951) reminds us that the history of male imagery isn't divided neatly between "fine art" and "commercial art." It all overlaps. Just as Rodin worked from Marconi's photographs, Eakins moved between photography and painting, Quaintance borrowed from physique photography, and Muybridge helped shape cinema, Leyendecker used illustration to define an entire generation's idea of masculine beauty.
1. Sailor by J.C. Leyendecker - based on model, Charles A. Beach, whose image survives primarily through Leyendecker's paintings rather than photographs. In many ways, we know him through the face America admired without realizing it was often the same man.
2. J.C. Leyendecker in his studio.
His greatest model was Charles A. Beach (1881–1954), who was far more than a handsome face. Beach was Leyendecker's lifelong partner, muse, business manager, and the inspiration behind countless Arrow Collar Men.
3. Charles A. Beach was Leyendecker's model for this Arrow shirt ad, which led to a handsome square-jawed standard of masculinity referred to as an Arrow Collar Man from 1905-1931, similar to the Marlboro Man from the 1950s to '80s.
4. Strength & Service: Turning the Wheel of Progress - 1922 - Leyendecker. Part of the Spirit of Transportation series know for its Art Deco style.
Like Quaintance later did with Jim Glasper and Zaro Rossi, Leyendecker returned to Beach again and again, simply changing the hair color, expression, or wardrobe to create what appeared to be different men. One body became an entire cast of American masculinity.
5. Bernarr Macfadden's Physical Culture Magazine January 1913 issue by Leyendecker. The dark-haired supporting figure is based on Charles Beach.
6. Man on a Suitcase - 1912 - Leyendecker - an ad for Cooper underwear which later became Jockey.
7. Cooper Underwear Company ad - 1915 - Leyendecker. Charles Beach, who Leyendecker's protégé, Norman Rockwell, referred to as strikingly handsome and athletic, modeled for both of these Cooper ads.
Their relationship remained largely private, but its influence was everywhere. In an era when queer lives had to be coded, Leyendecker filled America's most popular magazines with graceful, beautiful men whose glances and gestures still feel charged today.
8. Football Player - Saturday Evening Post, November 30, 1912 - Leyendecker.
9. Gillette Safety Razor ad - 1912 - Leyendecker. Notice the fit of those boxer shorts on Beach.
10. Lifeguard, Save Me - Saturday Evening Post cover August 9, 1924 issue - Leyendecker. Beach posed in a men's bathing suit from the period.
It's another reminder that gay artists have helped shape mainstream American visual culture for far longer than most people realize.
11. Ivory Soap ad - 1917 - Leyendecker. Notice the suggestion of male nudity, the men watching the guys in the shower, and the physical proximity of the three figures on the left with hands where we cannot see them.
12. Interwoven Socks ad in Saturday Evening Post - 1921 - Leyendecker. Again, notice the familiar face and body, also the way the hand is stroking the stocking with garter holding it up.
Please leave thoughts, questions or corrections in the comments. Thank you. bns
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